3-Day Gwangju Itinerary - Temples, Tea Fields, and the Best Kimchi Ever

(Part of my 30-day backpacking adventure in South Korea)

Day 1 – A New City, New Faces, and the Sweetest Home-Cooked Meal

I boarded the plane in Jeju before noon. The flight was a little bumpy, especially during landing. Not terrifying, just enough turbulence to remind me I’m definitely not made of clouds. I passed the time reading an English newspaper and mentally mapping my next steps.

Once in Gwangju, I hopped into a taxi for the 16.6-kilometer ride to my Couchsurfing host’s home. True to Korean hospitality, the taxi driver even called my host to let him know I’d arrived safely.

The house is big, spotless, and incredibly welcoming.

My host, a soft-spoken doctor, quickly whipped up instant jjajangmyeon and pajeon for lunch, and wow, honestly, better than some restaurant versions. Simple, comforting, and made with care.

After lunch, he kindly dropped me off at the Gwangju Traditional Culture Center, and from there I headed toward Mudeungsan. My legs were still screaming from hiking Hallasan in Jeju (still not over that mountain), so I limited myself to visiting just two temples. Even so, the quiet trails, mountain air, and gentle stillness worked their magic.

I stopped by a cozy restaurant, sipped green tea, and let my legs recover. Somewhere between sips, I started wondering: Can I actually survive the 108 bows at my upcoming templestay?

I returned home a little after 6 PM to a peaceful, quiet house. After a long, satisfying shower, I waited for the twin daughters to arrive. In the kitchen, I chatted with them: Hee Ho (the one with glasses) and Hee Jong (the smaller one) as they cooked and happily devoured sausages.

Then their mom came home, and bless her, she cooked omurice for dinner. Warm, fluffy, and made with so much love. I couldn’t stop smiling.

We later dropped the girls off at their boarding school in Damyang, and on the way back, we ran into their young son in the elevator. A shy hello, then back upstairs to wind down.

I ended the night chatting on the phone with my local friend, who was very much in play mode but still curious about all my walking and exploring. He wondered how I don’t get tired. Honestly, sometimes I wonder that too.

Another beautiful day. New faces, new flavors, and warm connections. My heart was full.

Day 2 – Boseong Disappointment, Odongdo Delight, and the Best Kimchi Ever

I woke up at 5:30 AM, still sore from all the hiking in Jeju. The night had been cold enough that I had to grab an extra blanket just to sleep properly. Achy but determined, I was out the door by 6:05 AM, hopping into a taxi bound for the bus terminal, which honestly looked more like a mini airport.

I caught the 6:30 AM bus to Boseong, dreaming of rolling green tea fields straight out of a postcard.

Spoiler alert: reality didn’t quite match the dream.

Taxis became my best friends that morning. ₩3,500 here, ₩1,860 there. The tourist information center wasn’t even open yet (it only opens at 10 AM), and there wasn’t much to see. I ducked into a Ministop, bought cookies and water, and asked two local guys what I should do. They both shrugged and said, “Taxi.”

I didn’t even bother going up the hill. The tea plantation just wasn’t green enough to wow me. My local friend later messaged saying other countries' tea fields are better, and honestly, he might be right.

Thankfully, the taxi driver had given me his card. I called him back and made my escape to Yeosu.

I tried taking Bus 333 from Yeosu to Odongdo, but it was taking forever. So yes… taxi again. My wallet winced, but my sanity thanked me.

And Odongdo was totally worth it.

Windy, scenic, calming. Exactly what I needed. I munched on a squid stick (everything tastes better when you’re hungry). I considered visiting the Dragon Cave, but being alone made me hesitate. What if I slipped and no one noticed? Dramatic, maybe, but also possible. So, I wandered instead, stopped by a cozy restaurant near a filming location, relaxed by the fountain, and even helped a sweet couple take photos.

Back in Gwangju, I popped into Shinsegae Mall and treated myself to a new pair of Adidas shoes that were on sale.

At home, I showered and checked in with my local friend, who immediately asked if I’d eaten. He’d been nagging me all morning to eat properly. Clearly, he knew I hadn’t. Such a kind soul.

Around 7:45 PM, eonni (my host’s wife, a teacher) came home bringing food from her mom, including kimchi. And Oh. My. Gosh. The best kimchi I’ve ever tasted. Like, stop-everything-and-savor-it kind of good!

We ended up sitting in the dining area until 10 PM, chatting using MLD and Google Translate apps, talking about everything. One of those slow, cozy, unforgettable nights.

I finally went to bed around 11 PM, thanks to my local friend’s poor Wi-Fi cutting conversations short. But overall, a whirlwind day of missed expectations, hidden gems, and homemade magic, I’ll still take it.

Day 3 – Bye, Gwangju

I woke up later today at 8:15 AM, and it felt amazing to take things slow. After a refreshing shower, I had breakfast of kimchi kimbap. I even wrapped it in extra kimchi, because why not? Tangy, crunchy, and absolutely perfect.

There was a small misunderstanding when I arrived earlier. I’d told my host that he didn’t need to drop me off at the bus terminal when I leave. But at 9:15 AM, there he was anyway. Soon after, the lovely couple drove me to the bus terminal.

So sweet. So thoughtful.

And just like that, it was time to say goodbye to a city that surprised me, challenged my expectations, and wrapped me in warmth, one home-cooked meal at a time.