5 Days in Jeju Island: From Bumpy Flights to Hallasan Summit

(Part of My 30-Day Backpacking Trip in South Korea)

Day 1 – From a Bumpy Flight to a Lost Tripod

My flight from Busan to Jeju was bumpy enough to trigger a full grip-the-seat, pray-silently moment. Turbulence aside, I landed safely. Already tired, but excited, and then came the stress.

I hopped into a taxi at Jeju Airport only to realize the driver and I were not understanding each other at all. After several confusing minutes, I panicked, got out, and decided to take the bus instead.

That’s when it hit me. My tripod. Left behind. Gone.

By the time I realized it, the bus was already moving. I was furious at myself, the situation, everything. That tripod had been with me the entire trip. It wasn’t just a gear; it was memories waiting to happen.

The bus had no English announcements. Glad that I had memorized my stop. If I had not, I might’ve ended up somewhere completely random on the island.

That night, I checked into the guesthouse and met Anne B, an 18-year-old Filipina traveler. We clicked instantly and decided to get samgyeopsal for dinner. Sizzling pork belly, lettuce wraps, and shared travel stories helped calm my nerves.

The tripod loss still stung. But I was in Jeju now. Fresh air, island vibes, and maybe a chance to reset.

Day 2 – Peaceful Gardens, Waterfalls, and Loveland Laughs

The day started early with an 8:30 AM bus tour. I was half-asleep but determined not to waste a full day in Jeju.

Hallim Park was our first stop, a massive space filled with manicured gardens, bonsai trees, caves, and lava rock paths. Even groggy, I could appreciate the calm beauty.

Next was Mt. Sanbangsan. We skipped the full trek due to maintenance, but explored the temples at the base. It was quiet, incense-filled, and deeply peaceful.

We passed Olle Trail 8, one of Jeju’s famous coastal paths. I didn’t hike it, but it instantly went on my “next time” list.

Lunch was at Spirited Garden, surrounded by ancient bonsai trees and flowing water features. Light, refreshing, and perfect for a long day tour.

Later stops included a surprising hangar photo spot with an almost apocalyptic vibe, followed by Cheongjeyeon Waterfalls, roaring beautifully after recent rain. One of those places where everything else fades into background noise.

After the tour, Anne and I headed to Loveland - Jeju’s infamous erotic sculpture park. Awkward? Yes. Hilarious? Absolutely. I laughed nonstop and took way too many photos. A must-see once in your life.

Dinner was a burger at Lotteria after a quick stop at Lotte Mart for a windbreaker. Tried withdrawing cash using my BPI card. No luck. Twice. Travel stress level: rising.

To top it off, I had to cancel my ferry trip to Mokpo after learning my sister’s friend, whom I was meeting, would be away. Local friends were relieved for me, worried about the solo ferry ride. I felt their concern and appreciated it.

New plan: flight to Gwangju (although it wasn’t cheap).

Back at Yeha Guesthouse, more bad news. They were fully booked for the next day. Tomorrow night will be at a jjimjilbang (Korean bathhouse), then transfer to the guesthouse’s branch the day after.

A day full of gardens, waterfalls, s*x statues, booking stress, ATM fails, and canceled plans, but also laughter and connection. Travel, in its truest form.

Day 3 – Jeju’s East Side, Sunrise Peak, and a Jjimjilbang Night

Checked out early with a humble breakfast - just two eggs. Left my luggage at the guesthouse and joined another packed bus tour.

First stop: Trick Art Museum. Surprisingly fun and playful. A great mood booster.

Next: Seongeup Folk Village. A bit underwhelming for me. I’ve seen many recreated villages, but still interesting to walk through.

Lunch was Jeju black pig. Delicious, but not nearly enough food for what was coming.

The Haenyeo (Women Divers) Show was powerful. Strong, resilient women keeping an ancient tradition alive. It was deeply moving.

Then came Seongsan Ilchulbong (Sunrise Peak). The climb was intense, but the view was unreal. One of Jeju’s most rewarding moments.

We cruised along Jondalri Shore Road, windows down, sea breeze in my face. Pure island magic.

Final stop: Manjanggul Cave. Impressive lava tubes, though by then I was running on exhaustion.

That evening, Anne and I ate omurice at Dongmun Underground Market.

Then plot twist. While walking around, I saw a life-sized cutout of Joo Won, my favorite Korean actor. I squealed. Zero shame.

I spent the night at a jjimjilbang. Warm floors, buzzing energy, families everywhere. Showered, soaked my feet, and passed out by 10:15 PM. Tired but happy.

Day 4 – Hallasan Summit and Getting Lost

Sleeping on a jjimjilbang mat was colder than expected. I gave up by 5:45 AM and headed for a hot bath, surrounded by ajummas chatting like it was midday.

By 7:15 AM, I was on my way to Hallasan via the Seongpanak Trail.

The hike was steep, rocky, and stunning. I reached the summit at 11:30 AM, frozen by the wind but completely awed. Clouds, volcanic terrain, and the feeling of “I actually did this.”

Descended and finished around 4:00 PM. Legs jelly, stomach screaming. Then I got lost.

A taxi dropped me in the wrong place. I wandered for nearly an hour, exhausted, before finally reaching the guesthouse at 5:30 PM to grab my luggage and then transferred to their branch.

That night, I met a Korean and a Canadian hiker who also summited Hallasan that day. We bonded over sore legs and shared ramyeon and tea. It's simple, comforting, perfect.

Day 5 – Bye, Jeju

Woke up early thanks to energetic Indonesian roomies. Checked out around 9:35 AM and treated myself to a taxi to the airport.

Changed money, uploaded photos, and exchanged KakaoTalk messages with my Korean friend. One of those familiar connections that make travel feel less lonely.

Jeju gave me lost items, wrong turns, aching legs, and unforgettable moments. Honestly, I’d do it all over again.