Backpacking South Korea: Samcheok Caves and Gyeongju’s Ancient Capital

(Part of My 30-Day Backpacking Adventure in South Korea)

Day 1: A Missed Park and a Hanok Experience

I left my guesthouse in Gangneung at 6:20 AM, determined to catch an early bus to the Gangneung Bus Terminal to proceed to Samcheok. Unfortunately, determination doesn’t always move buses faster. After waiting for over 30 minutes with no luck, I gave in and flagged a taxi instead (sometimes, efficiency really does cost a few extra won, and honestly, no regrets).

When I arrived at Samcheok Bus Terminal, I was surprised to learn there was no luggage storage. Slight panic. I should have researched more. Thankfully, a kind ajumma working at the ticket booth offered to keep my backpack for me. She didn’t speak English, and I didn’t speak Korean, but thanks to the MLD translation app, we managed just fine. Moments like these remind me how kindness transcends language.

I explored Hwaseongul Cave and returned to the terminal around 12 noon to take another bus to my next destination. Sadly, I didn’t make it to Haesindang Park. Yes, the famous “penis park.” Timing wasn’t on my side that day. Maybe next time.

So, at 12:40 PM, I decided to hop on the bus to Gyeongju. The ride felt endless, stopping every few minutes, but eventually, I arrived. I was picked up by Craig C, my Couchsurfing host. A Kiwi teacher living in Gyeongju. We walked together to his hanok house, which was a bit messy but warm, cozy, and full of friendly dogs. Definitely my kind of place.

I also met another Couchsurfing guest. To be honest, he was quite grumpy and not the most pleasant company. You win some, you lose some. Anyway, the day ended with samgyeopsal shared among the host and guests. Warm food, shared stories, and even a few awkward personalities. Still a good way to end a long travel day.

Day 2: Exploring Gyeongju’s Ancient Heart

I started early, heading to the tour meeting point by 8:10 AM for a 9:00 AM departure. With a bit of time to spare, I followed a Korean friend’s recommendation and bought Hwangnam bread, a famous local specialty. It’s a soft bun filled with sweet red bean paste, similar to Chinese hopia. I really wanted to love it, but honestly, it was way too sweet for my taste. The first bite was okay. The second bite was sugar overload.

The tour itself was packed with historical gems:

• Bunhwangsa Temple was our first stop. Home to one of Korea’s oldest stone pagodas. It had a calm, almost mystical atmosphere. The kind of place that naturally makes you lower your voice.
• Next was the Silla Arts and Science Museum, which surprised me in the best way. It highlighted how advanced the Silla Kingdom was in both science and the arts. Seeing how much was achieved centuries ago, without modern technology, was incredibly humbling.
• Cheonmachong Tomb Complex followed, with its grassy burial mounds scattered across the landscape. One tomb is open to visitors, and stepping inside felt a bit like being Indiana Jones (minus the booby traps).

• Anapji Pond was as beautiful as ever, with its elegant pavilions reflected on the still water. Hard to imagine it was once part of a royal palace complex.
• We also visited the Cheomseongdae Astronomical Observatory, an ancient stone tower used to study the stars. The fact that it has stood for over a thousand years is mind-blowing.
• Our final stop was the Tomb of General Kim Yushin, a revered Silla general. The site was quiet, grassy, and dignified. An appropriately peaceful resting place for a national hero.

Couchsurfing Guests and a Not-So-Lost Evening

After the tour, I met the newest Couchsurfing guests, Melody and Poh from Singapore. They had already gained a reputation for getting lost earlier in the day, which made the introductions even more entertaining.

To help them recover (and maybe reset their navigation skills), we went out for ssambap for dinner. If you’ve never tried it, it’s a hands-on Korean meal where you wrap rice, grilled meat, and condiments in lettuce or perilla leaves. Messy, satisfying, and absolutely delicious.

After dinner, we walked together to Anapji Pond, and thankfully, no one got lost this time. Seeing the pond at night was magical, with lights casting dreamy reflections on the water. By the end of the day (or night), I was exhausted but deeply fulfilled. Beautiful sights, good food, and warm conversations. Everything I love about slow travel.

Day 3: Rain, Motorbikes, and Saying Goodbye

The morning began with a small adventure on two wheels. Craig offered me a ride on his motorbike to the bank so I could change money. We zipped through Gyeongju’s quiet streets, and it felt surprisingly freeing. A cool, unexpected way to start the day.

At 11:40 AM, I boarded the bus and officially said goodbye to Gyeongju. Another chapter closed, another city etched into memory, as the journey continued.