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Staying in Khao San Road: Bangkok's Backpackers' Haven

Krung Thep is another name for Bangkok; the short term for its real name, which is listed in the Guinness Book of Records as the world’s longest location name. Krung Thep means the city of angels, and true to its name, Thai people are like angels with a ready and kind smile.

It was not my first visit. I was here 15 years ago. I came here and purposely made it the last leg of my backpacking so I could do a bit of shopping without worrying about an increase in my backpack’s weight. It’s going to be the end of my backpacking; I won’t be walking around carrying my backpack anymore.

Khao San Road is a backpackers’ haven. Not only is it near the Chao Phraya River, but it is part of Rattanakosin (the old city), where the Grand Palace and Wat Po are. This is where I spent 2 nights while I was in Bangkok.

As shopping was my objective in Bangkok, and I wanted to splurge a bit, I booked a room for myself. I could scatter all my stuff without care and leave my room from time to time without locking up my stuff. Things I cannot do when I’m staying in the dormitory rooms. The room was classy, native-style, with a balcony, the bathroom was big, and the price included a breakfast buffet. And it was just five hundred baht a night!

During my first night, I had dinner at a restaurant across from the hotel and then walked around the next street to look for a hotel where I would meet with the tour guide for the next day’s tour. Once I located the meeting place, I headed back to my hotel, did some shopping on my way back, and called it a night.

On the second night, exhausted from a day of the tour, I dragged myself out to get something to eat (and bought some gifts/souvenirs). This time, I bought some street food and ate it in my room.

Morning came, and it was my last day in Bangkok; the last day of my backpacking. Wanting to avail the breakfast buffet, I got up half an hour before the breakfast buffet closed. Sitting next to the glass window, I enjoyed my breakfast while watching people on Khao San Road. The road was clear, with minimal people walking by. The road was much quieter than during the nighttime.

Walking a few blocks away from Khao San Road, I reached a market called Banglamphu, where I shopped for apparel to bring home to my family and for myself as well. After a great deal of haggling, I strode back to Khao San Road full of satisfaction. Add to that, while on my way back to the hotel, taking snaps of the street foods, I noticed for the first time (I’ve passed this way 5 times already) the hand-written ad at the Tourist Information booth located at the road corner. It’s a minivan service to/from the airport! I didn’t need to flag down a taxi later; I bought a ticket on the spot and was told to be there on time.

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Back in my room, I cooled down in the bathtub and then packed my stuff for the last time. Checked out, kept my stuff in the luggage room, and stayed in the hotel lobby until I got hungry and decided to have my late lunch. I wasn’t in the mood to visit any tourist spots anymore. I didn’t want to bask in the glory of the sun. I didn’t want my shirt to soak in sweat.

While having my late lunch (it’s sometime around 4 PM), the road was gradually changing. Food hawkers were starting to crowd the road. Clothes/bags/shoes on sale began appearing. Several of the restaurants started playing songs; even the tuk-tuks waiting for passengers were blasting the speaker. By 5 PM, the coffee shop next to the hotel started serving shisha, and I was their first customer of the day to order shisha. By this time, the road has started to get busy.

With a few bahts to spare, I called the guy across the road to braid my hair. Since he couldn’t leave his stall, he talked to the waiter who brought my shisha across the stall where I continued smoking, and he was braiding my hair. People passing by would look at us, stop a bit, and watch; some would even take a photo.

As the sun went down, the road was transformed into a very different scene. I had a great time people-watching here. Young and young at heart, locals and tourists, ladyboys and straight, all were having a great time, walking, shopping, and talking to strangers. The music from the restaurants and bars was blasting like they were competing for the loudest sound. Tables and chairs from restaurants and food carts were sprouting on the road.

Though I didn’t wanna leave my seat and enjoy the lively scene of Khao San Road, at 8 PM, I was riding a motorbike that picked me up to get to the minivan that would take me to the airport.

Khao San Road is truly a backpackers’ haven. It’s a road full of cheap accommodation; food is relatively cheap as well. If you’re looking for bargains, you’ll find everything sold here. Tattoo houses, travel agents, massage parlors, name it, and you’ll find it here. A good place to hang out, people-watch, and meet fellow travelers and locals.

You’ll never feel alone on Khao San Road. The best place to stay in Bangkok (I suppose).

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