Border Crossing Woes Turned into Memorable Night in Phnom Penh

One thing I don’t like while traveling is not seeing the places I had planned to visit. But one thing I love about traveling is sharing time and stories with complete strangers. Well, there’s always a smile behind every tear.

After waiting for almost half an hour at the park across the Kumho Samco Bus Ticket Office on Pham Ngu Lao Street in Ho Chi Minh City, I, along with other passengers (mostly backpackers), was herded to the other side of the park. It was a bit of a walk, and by the time I reached and boarded the bus bound for Cambodia, I was already sweating.

I was supposed to have left Ho Chi Minh City the day before, but due to a language barrier, the hostel didn’t book me a seat as I had requested via email. I had an ATV and sunset tour over the Killing Fields in Phnom Penh scheduled for 3 PM, and all I could do was silently pray during the journey that I would make it on time.

If you buy your ticket directly from the bus ticket office, you’ll save a dollar or two. The fare is only $10, but since I booked through the hostel, they charged a dollar more. Not unfair, really. 

Just make sure to check your ticket before boarding to avoid sitting in the wrong seat. Although it’s in Vietnamese, you’ll find a number written on it. That’s your seat number.

The bus left about five minutes late. As soon as we were on the road, the bus steward began collecting everyone’s passports. Though it may seem strange to hand your passport to a stranger, there’s no need to worry. To speed up the immigration process, the steward hands all the passports to the immigration officer and returns them once they’re stamped.

My Western seatmate happened to catch a glimpse of my passport and started a conversation that lasted the entire trip. It turned out he works in my home country, loves it, and is in a relationship with a Filipina. It was a bit funny and slightly embarrassing because he knew more about my country than I did. But I’ve been working abroad for quite some time, and so much has changed since I left. I’d probably lose my way there now.

After about two hours, we reached Moc Bai, the last town in Vietnam, where we went through Vietnam's passport control. We all alighted from the bus and followed the steward. It took about 30 minutes to get our passports back. Once I exited the building, I saw several of my co-passengers waiting outside our bus. That saved me the trouble of looking for it.

Once everyone had completed the exit procedure, we crossed into Cambodia, entering the town of Bavet. It was less than half a kilometer from the Vietnam side. I handed over my passport, received my Cambodian entry stamp, and was back on the bus. We had to wait for passengers who were applying for visas on arrival.

Unique transportation in Cambodia. 

A cow loitering in the middle of the road in Cambodia.

After just two kilometers in Cambodia, we made a toilet and meal stop at a roadside restaurant on Highway 1.

Across the restaurant where we stopped for lunch. 

“I still have time for my ATV and sunset tour,” I kept thinking. But then we reached the Mekong River at Neak Loeung, where we had to wait for a roll-on/roll-off (RORO) ferry. That wait seemed to last forever. By the time our bus boarded the ferry, I had lost all hope. I was already behind schedule for my tour.

Entering Neak Loeung Port

The RORO ferry

(Good news: that bridge is now completed, so no more ferry delays for future travelers!)

Khmer hawkers on a boat as photographed from the RORO ferry.

We arrived in Phnom Penh past 4 PM. The bus made its final stop at the Kumho Samco Bus Office on Preah Sihanouk Blvd., which was lined with tuk-tuks. I shared a ride with my seatmate and his travel buddy, since we were all staying near Sisowath Quay. We split the fare and promised to meet up later for dinner.

Phnom Penh is Cambodia’s capital and largest city. It’s known as one of the most charming French-built cities in Southeast Asia and was once called the “Pearl of Asia.” French colonial buildings still dot its wide boulevards and bustling streets.

The city is nestled along the banks of the Mekong, Tonle Sap, and Bassac rivers. It was founded in 1432 and served as the royal capital for 73 years, until 1505, when internal royal conflicts led to its abandonment. It wasn’t until 1866 that Phnom Penh became the permanent seat of government.

Feeling a bit disappointed for missing my afternoon tour and knowing that I wouldn’t be able to visit the Royal Palace or the National Museum, I quickly freshened up at the guesthouse. After stashing my backpack under my bunk, I set out for a quick stroll before sunset.

Sisowath Quay was just a two-minute walk from the guesthouse. It’s a scenic 3-kilometer boulevard along the riverbank. As I walked further, something caught my eye at a roundabout. A stunning pagoda complex bathed in the golden light of the setting sun. It was the most beautiful sight I had seen in Phnom Penh.

Wat Ounalom as photographed from Sisowath Quay.

I wanted a photo but was too shy to ask someone until I spotted a man with a camera on a tripod. He looked like a pro, so I figured one click would be enough. Not only did he take multiple photos, but he also kindly offered to walk me around the Royal Palace grounds and then back past the pagoda complex, Wat Ounalom, I later learned. It’s the center of Cambodian Buddhism and home to the country’s top monk and many others.

Wat Ounalom and sunset plus me.

At the Royal Palace grounds.

The park near the Royal Palace. 

Passing by the Wat Ounalom compound.

Phnom Pehn Night Market

We continued to the Night Market and wandered through the lively streets. Soon it was dinnertime, and I had my heart set on trying amok, a Cambodian dish I’d heard so much about. We found a restaurant at the Riverside Hotel and ordered. My amok was rich and flavorful. Thanks to shallots, lemongrass, and coconut milk. My new friend had lok lak, stir-fried cubed beef served with a lime dipping sauce. I had a taste, and it was delicious.

After dinner, we walked over to Harem Shisha Lounge (part of the Riverhouse Lounge). I introduced my new friend to shisha, and we ordered three different kinds of alcoholic drinks each. We were having a great time!

Heading upstairs to the restroom, we discovered a dance floor, and of course, we joined in. We were in our slippers, shorts, and shirts, completely underdressed compared to the well-dressed crowd, but we didn’t care. We danced like nobody was watching.

I thought that would be the end of the night, but my new friend offered to show me around Phnom Penh on his motorbike. Curious about Cambodia’s red-light districts (I’d read about the country’s s*x trade), I asked him to take me to one. He brought me to Pontoon Club, a well-known spot. The place was massive, and I couldn’t help but feel conflicted watching women approach potential clients, joking, flirting, trying to make a connection. I know I made fun of the scene, but I also pitied them. I guess I was just tired and a bit drunk.

The Independence Monument.

By the time we left, it was almost 3 AM. My bus to SiemReap was leaving in just a few hours. My new friend dropped me off at the guesthouse, which was locked, so I had to ring the bell to be let in.

Three hours of sleep later, the guesthouse owner gently tapped me awake for my journey.

I didn’t get to visit the Killing Fields or enter the museums or palaces, but the experience of Phnom Penh’s nightlife and gaining a new friend made it all worth it. I can proudly say I set foot in this vibrant city, and I enjoyed every second of my short stay.