Exploring Angkor Archaeological Park: A Must-See UNESCO World Heritage Site

“Surreal” is the only word I can think of to describe how I felt standing before this once-mighty empire, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992 and included on the World Wonder List. What began as a quiet, sleepy morning turned into an unforgettable journey through time.

From a Guesthouse in the Dark

It was still pitch black when I hopped on a tuk-tuk from Siem Reap for the short 20-minute ride to Angkor. The only things I could see on the road were a few dim lights from passing homes. Half-asleep, I tried to finish the baguette and bananas the kind guesthouse owner had given me. He noticed how tired I was and gently insisted I have coffee while waiting for my driver. “Don’t leave until I come back,” he said. A few minutes later, he returned with a plastic bag full of warm, fresh baguettes. His father-like gesture touched me deeply. I took one, added a bit of jam, bowed to thank him, and waved goodbye as he handed me two more bananas and gave the tuk-tuk driver a few instructions.

Tip: You can book this tour with a guide here. On tuk-tuk or car here.

Into the Ancient Kingdom

The sun had yet to rise when we reached the Angkor Visitor Centre, already swarming with eager tourists. I bought a 1-day pass (US$37). It’s a personalized ticket printed with your photo, which I found to be a unique and practical souvenir.

Angkor Archaeological Park spans over 400 square kilometers and contains the remnants of the mighty Khmer Empire (9th to 15th Centuries). The most iconic temples here are Angkor Wat and Bayon, many of which are framed by manmade moats. Originally built as Hindu temples, they were later converted to Buddhist temples under King Jayavarman VII, only to be rededicated to Hinduism again by his successor.

Armed with some reading I’d done while in Vietnam, I chose to explore without a guide. I wanted to be free, on my own time, with no agenda but discovery.

Angkor Wat: Sunrise Over Stone

Crossing the sandstone causeway towards the west entrance of Angkor Wat as the sun began to rise was magical. The five lotus-shaped towers, set against a palette of purple and gold, seemed to pull me in.

Built by King Suryavarman II in the early 12th century, Angkor Wat is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. The complex is vast, and the bas-reliefs are mesmerizing.

At the base of the bridge, I climbed a short flight of steps leading to the T-shaped Terrace of Honor. A platform once used for rituals and for welcoming foreign dignitaries in ancient times.

Sunrise view from inside the Angkor Wat.

From the terrace, I made my way into the complex, passing the libraries on either side of the path. I eventually found a good spot to capture the sunrise before beginning my walk around the site, taking in the intricate bas-reliefs that illustrated historical events and mythological tales. They were fascinating to examine. Depicting battle scenes, military processions, horse-drawn chariots, three-legged elephants, a man riding a goose, gods, demons, and more.

I followed the other tourists, mostly Westerners, as they climbed up to the second tier, then continued to the third tier and into the central courtyard, pausing along the way to take photos. When the crowd started to build, I made my way back down to the second tier to explore a bit more. That’s where I met a group of four fellow countrymen, three guys and a lady. Later, I shared brunch with them at food stalls near the pond.

Bas-reliefs in Angkor Wat

A door inside Angkor Wat

Angkor Thom: The Royal City

After brunch, my tuk-tuk driver dropped me off near the South Gate of Angkor Thom, the last capital of the Khmer Empire. 

The causeway to the South Gate of Angkor Thom.

To enter through the South Gate, I walked along the long causeway. I remembered someone I met before my trip advising me to take a close look at the stone figures lining both sides. On the right side are demons, recognizable by their fierce expressions and flat-top headdresses, while on the left are gods with serene faces and pointed headdresses. Both groups are depicted holding a massive multi-headed serpent.

The South Gate, like the other four gates of Angkor Thom, is crowned with four massive stone faces looking out toward the four cardinal directions. Nestled between and beneath these heads are smaller half-bodied figures. The lower portion of the gate features a design resembling a three-headed elephant.

Before entering Angkor Thom, I paused to take some photos and watch a procession of elephants carrying tourists on their backs.

Once inside the walled royal city, I explored on foot the various sights in no particular order with the two guys from the brunch group. The heat was punishing, but the grandeur made it bearable. We wandered through:

Ruins of the Bayon Temple of Angkor Thom

Bayon Temple (Golden Tower)– Perhaps the most iconic temple within Angkor Thom. Bayon is known for its 54 towering stone spires, each adorned with four serene faces. These faces feature broad foreheads, wide noses, full lips, and downcast eyes. Built between the late 12th and early 13th centuries, about a century after Angkor Wat, Bayon was dedicated to Buddhism during the reign of King Jayavarman VII.

The temple’s three levels are covered in detailed bas-reliefs depicting daily life and historical events. The third level houses the central sanctuary, with the east side packed with small chambers. From this level, the view of the many face towers is especially captivating, which is why it’s always bustling with tourists. It was here that we lost track of the lady and one of the guys from the group I had met earlier at Angkor Wat.

Baphoun Tower of Angkor Thom 

Baphuon Temple (Tower of Bronze) – Located northeast of Bayon, Baphuon is taller and symbolizes Mount Meru, sacred in Hinduism. Built in 1060 by King Udayadityavarman II and dedicated to Shiva, it features a raised walkway and detailed bas-reliefs of daily life and forest scenes.  

The steep climb to the top was well worth it for the panoramic view, including a glimpse of Phimeanakas. Coming down, I had to move sideways carefully. The descent was so steep, it made me dizzy.

Bas-reliefs of the Baphoun Tower of Angkor Thom

Phimeanakas (Aerial Palace) of Angkor Thom. 

Phimeanakas – (Aerial Palace) – Situated within the Royal Palace grounds, north of Baphuon Temple, this Hindu temple was built in the late 10th century by Kings Jayavarman V and Udayadityavarman I.

According to legend, a nine-headed serpent spirit lived in a golden tower here, appearing to the king each night as a woman. The king was required to sleep with her before seeing his wives. Missing a night was believed to bring death. 

Going up was a challenge, and I was already tired by that time to challenge myself anymore. The stairs were too steep, steeper than those of Baphoun Temple’s. I sat down instead under the shade of the trees, admiring the beauty in front of me. My two companions dared the height, so I waited for them to go down.

Preah Palilay – Nestled in the jungle north of Phimeanakas, this 12th-century Buddhist temple was built by King Jayavarman VII. Towering trees frame its entrance, adding to its serene, hidden charm.

Preah Palilay of Angkor Thom

Terrace of the Leper King in Angkor Thom

Terrace of the Leper King – Accessible from the main road, this terrace was built in the late 12th century during the reign of King Jayavarman VII (1181–1220). Its detailed bas-reliefs are worth a closer look. A replica of the Leper King statue stands on the terrace, while the original is housed in the National Museum in Phnom Penh. As for the identity of the Leper King, that remains a mystery!

Terrace of the Elephants with Alvin

Terrace of the Elephants - Located just south of the Terrace of the Leper King and accessible from the main road, this elevated platform was built during King Jayavarman VII’s reign. Adorned with bas-reliefs of elephants and warriors, it was used by the king to view his victorious army’s return.

Prasat Suor Prat – I arrived at this row of twelve sandstone towers by crossing the main road from the Terrace of the Elephants. Arranged symmetrically, six on each side of the road leading to Angkor Thom’s Victory Gate. The towers have two levels with windows on three sides, standing in an open field. While some believe they represent the 12 astronomical signs, the exact purpose remains a mystery.

Rows of sandstone towers called Prasat Suor Prat

Local beliefs say the towers were used for acrobatic shows during festivals, with ropes strung between them. Others believe they served as altars for provincial leaders swearing loyalty to the king. A Chinese envoy once wrote that the towers were used to settle disputes. Both parties were confined inside, and the one who fell ill was deemed guilty. Interestingly, some locals, especially men, avoid the towers, believing they bring bad luck. This, at least, is what my driver told me in broken English.

While taking photos of Prasat Suor Prat, I noticed two buildings behind the twelve towers called South Kleang and North Kleang. Though “kleang” means storeroom in English, their exact purpose is unclear. Carvings of the royal oath of allegiance on their doorways suggest they were unlikely used for storage and may have served as reception areas or housing for visiting diplomats.

·       North and South Kleang – The North Kleang was originally built from wood during King Rajendravarman II’s reign and later rebuilt in stone by King Jayavarman V before the South Kleang was constructed. Despite being built years apart, with North Kleang the older, they look identical.

North Kleang of Angkor Thom

South Kleang of Angkor Thom

Preah Pithu

·       Preah Pithu – Dedicated to Hinduism, this group of five temples was built by King Suryavarman II in the early 12th century. Located north of Prasat Suor Prat and across from Tep Pranam (which I either missed or didn’t photograph), four temples are Hindu, while the fifth, at the back and unfinished, is Buddhist. The temples are in poor condition, and it felt a bit eerie to explore alone after parting ways with my two companions at the Terrace of the Elephants, who finally found their two missing friends.

Note: The Royal Palace was believed to have been made of wood and has since disappeared, with no remains ever found.

Rest area in Angkor Thom

The Small Circuit: Jungle, Ruins, and Hollywood Vibes

It was nearly 1 PM, and I was exhausted. I found a shady tree, bought an ice cream and water, and sat to rest, only to realize I had no idea where my tuk-tuk driver was. After a few nervous minutes, he appeared from afar, waving at me. Relief!

Just as I thought the day was done, we exited via the Victory Gate, only for him to point to the map and say, “One more!”

Small Circuit Temples:

• Ta Keo – Towering and unfinished, its lack of carvings gives it a stoic, almost ghostly aura. I skipped climbing due to fatigue, but promised myself a return.

Ta Keo - the temple of the youngest king. 

• Ta Prohm – My absolute favorite. Famous for its starring role in Tomb Raider, this temple is wrapped in the roots of massive trees. It feels alive. I wandered through shadowy corridors, past Sanskrit inscriptions, lost in awe (and literally lost at times). The eerie beauty gave me goosebumps.

Giant trees sprouted from the ruins, giving the area a unique and striking look. The remaining low buildings were cracked and split by the tree roots. Some parts are off-limits due to stone blockades, like the famous doorway of Ta Prohm, which is now cordoned off. When I arrived, a long line of visitors was waiting to have their photos taken there.

The infamous giant tree that grew on the ruins.

A Sanskrit inscription carved on a stone in a narrow passage still remains intact. It records the number of people who maintained the temple and details its treasures - diamonds, pearls, beads, and other precious stones. Exploring this place gave me goosebumps. The narrow, dark passages felt eerie, and I even got lost in them, adding to the haunted atmosphere.

The tuk-tuk driver told me to meet him at the back gate, but after asking several tour guides for directions, I kept getting lost and ended up circling the area repeatedly. Finally, I decided to follow a tour group, which led me straight to the back gate.

Back area of Ta Phrom

• Banteay Kdei – Smaller and less visited, but still rich in history and beauty. A place of calm after the crowded chaos of Ta Prohm. Built by King Jayavarman VII in the late 12th to early 13th century, this smaller, simpler Bayon-style temple lies southeast of Ta Prohm. Covered in vegetation and neglected for centuries, it was rediscovered during clearing efforts in the 1920s and used by Buddhist monks until the 1960s. 

In 2001, 274 Buddha statues were found here. The temple has four entrances, with the west gate leading to a moat adorned with stone lions and naga balustrades. Though many parts have collapsed, pillars with Apsara carvings and a seated Buddha statue remain.

Pillars of Banteay Kdei

On the way back, the driver laughed at me, knowing I was exhausted but still had more places to visit. He showed me the map and pointed out the remaining spots. Though I wanted to use my 1-day pass fully, I knew I wouldn’t make it. I told him I was done and ready to go home, but he just laughed, insisting we still had to see Prasat Kavan to complete the Small Tour Circuit. Feeling fed up, I snapped that I just wanted to go home, and he laughed even harder.

I missed out on the Big Circuit and the Roluos Group, but Angkor had already given me more than I ever dreamed.

Note: The Big Tour Circuit is comprised of Preah Khan (akin to Ta Prohm with huge trees growing on the buildings), Neak Pean (four small ponds surrounding a large pond with a tower in the middle), East Mebon (miniature Angkor Wat), and Pre Rup (temple-mountain where the view of the sunset over the Cambodian jungles is best watched). 

The ruins of the Roluos Group, which date back to the late 9th Century, consist of Bakong (a mountain temple with 5-terrace pyramids), Lolei (an island temple), and Preah Ko (the first temple to be built within the Angkor Archaeological Park).

It was past 4 PM when I finally returned to my guesthouse in Siem Reap. The bed never looked more heavenly. As I lay there, flashes of the day, like towering stone faces, jungle-choked ruins, and centuries-old carvings, played in my mind. The grandeur, the mystery, the silence, it all felt like a dream.

I caught sight of my feet. Tanned with lines from my sandals. I smiled.

Angkor had left its mark on me.

My feet after visiting Angkor Archaeological Park :)

Practical Info/Costs

• 🎟 1-Day Angkor Pass – US$37
• 🛺 Tuk-tuk Tour (incl. sunrise) – US$20 + tip
• 🍜 Meals, drinks & snacks – Approx. US$9
• 🐘Elephant Ride (optional) – US$10 (advance booking recommended)

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