Banaue Rice Terraces: A Stunning Landscape of Ancient Farming

It was really time to go. Time to say goodbye to Sagada - another beautiful place that has given me fond memories (the spelunking, the hiking, etc.) to look back to.

From the balcony of George Guesthouse, I snapped a few last shots: fog spilling over valleys, hugging treetops and rooftops like a dream. This small slice of Cordillera morning was the perfect farewell.

Morning view from George Guesthouse, Sagada, Philippines

That morning, after hearing the news of the big falls still being closed to the public due to a ritual people were doing in the area, with nothing else to do, we packed our things and decided to go back to Manila early.

Dragging myself out, I took one last look at the guesthouse. The engine was already revved up, and one by one, my groupmates got into the van.

Scenic view on our way to Banaue, Philippines

Though Bomod-ok Falls (big falls) was removed from our itinerary, our amazing tour coordinator surprised us with a visit to the Banaue Ethnic Village and Pine Forest Resort. A hidden gem tucked away in pine woods, complete with hot-spring pools, picnic huts, and traditional Ifugao houses.

What struck me most was the display of Ifugao dwellings - from primitive pig stalls to modern raised houses. Skulls of farm animals adorned the fascia, a proud acknowledgment of the Ifugao's bond with their animals. The open bamboo floors were clearly living spaces where farming and community unfolded daily. The houses are basically small and elevated by poles; their open basement usually has low chairs. Probably, this is where residents receive their guests and do their chores.

My niece MM in Banaue

Animal skulls adorning an Ifugao house.

Inside an Ifugao house.

Before going to Banaue downtown for lunch, we stopped by at a viewpoint to see the more than 2000-year-old rice terraces carved using primitive tools by the ancient indigenous people of Ifugao. The Ifugao people still plant rice and vegetables on the rice terraces. The view is breathtaking, and seeing the rice terraces right in front of you was really amazing. It was a wonderful feeling looking at it up close. Now that I’ve seen it, whenever I have a ₱20 note in my hand, I could say,  “I’ve seen the real one!”.

The Banaue Rice Terraces, Philippines

We stayed for a bit at the nearby wood sculpture store, and my niece MM and I watched the young lady painting a bird sculpture. The young lady kindly let MM try polishing her creation for a while.

Lunchtime was spent at Sanafe Lodge and Restaurant – a veranda restaurant with an amazing view of the stairs of rice paddies. The interior was prettily decorated with antiques and native furniture. The food? Decent. The view? Absolutely unforgettable.

Sanafe Lodge & Restaurant, Banaue, Philippines

Post-lunch, we explored Banaue Market. There, amid woven bags and Ifugao shirts, I stumbled upon the item MM missed in Sagada: combs! Rows of colorful plastic combs! MM and I burst out laughing. If you’ve read my post on my Sagada trip, you’ll understand my.

“So, do you wanna buy this?”, I asked my niece.

“No, ninang. That’s okay. We’re going home anyway.”, she replied.

Thinking about this moment, I can’t help from smiling. My niece, for 3 days, didn’t comb her hair!

Banaue Market, Philippines

Anyway, Banaue for me is a cool, laidback place, and I wish to go back here for some hiking and a night or two to stay in one of their ethnic houses in the middle of nowhere to experience the Ifugao daily life. 

Why Banaue Matters

• Cultural Heritage: The terraces honor centuries of Ifugao ingenuity. Though some young locals move into tourism, the ancient terraces endure, fed by mountain streams and community spirit.
• Living Museum: Places like Banaue Ethnic Village showcase both the continuity and evolution of Ifugao living traditions, from humble huts to spring-fed resorts.
• Visual Masterpiece: Dubbed the "Eighth Wonder of the World," the terraces rise thousands of feet.

Thinking of Going?

You could pair Banaue with Sagada, just budget two nights per destination. Bring sturdy shoes, warm clothes for the mountains, and an appetite for cultural immersion.